In Korea, many people travel by car, so wonderful places are often hidden in areas that are difficult to reach by public transportation. Some destinations are virtually inaccessible without a car, while others require several transfers and a long journey. For that reason, even when there are places I genuinely want to introduce, I sometimes hesitate to recommend them to travelers who rely on public transportation.
Even so, I believe the role of this blog is to introduce not only places already well known to tourists, but also places Koreans actually visit. Today’s Namhansanseong Nakseonjae trip may be somewhat inconvenient by public transportation, but it is still a satisfying day trip near Seoul where you can experience a Korean meal inside a hanok and the historic scenery of Namhansanseong in a single day.
This journey begins with a slightly early lunch at Nakseonjae, followed by a visit to Namhansanseong to explore the Temporary Palace and fortress walls. In the evening, you can enjoy light Korean food in the fortress village before returning to Seoul.
Today’s Travel Route
INDEX
Seoul → Lunch at Nakseonjae → Travel to Namhansanseong → Temporary Palace & Fortress Walk → Food at Namhansanseong → Return to Seoul
Start your Hanok journey at Nakseonjae.
If you leave Seoul between 9:30 and 10:00 a.m., you can arrive at Nakseonjae at around 11:00 a.m. Allow about two hours for lunch and exploring the hanok grounds, around three hours for Namhansanseong, and approximately one and a half hours for food and rest.
Nakseonjae feels very different from an ordinary restaurant where you simply eat and leave. Opened in 1996, it is made up of several tiled-roof hanok buildings, courtyards, stone paths, trees, and traditional earthenware jars. The setting feels as though you are spending time in an old Korean residence. It is also popular with Koreans, so there may be a wait even on weekdays.
Address101 Buldang-gil, Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do
Opening HoursDaily, 11:00 a.m.–9:00 p.m.
What impressed Yuni most was the private detached dining rooms. Enjoying a meal with the doors open while looking out at the scenery creates a feeling that is difficult to experience anywhere else. Even as a Korean, I find dining here so special that I bring important guests to this restaurant.
Entry is first come, first served, and detached rooms are assigned depending on availability. If you want to dine in one, arrive when the restaurant opens. Otherwise, you may need to wait longer. Yuni strongly recommends a private detached room.
You remove your shoes before entering the hanok. Once seated among traditional paper doors and wooden pillars, you can experience not only Korean food but also the atmosphere of a traditional Korean home.
In fact, I remember the satisfaction created by the atmosphere more clearly than the satisfaction created by the taste. Because I am Korean, I have eaten Korean food many times. Rather than visiting only to eat a certain dish, it sometimes feels as though I come here to enjoy the atmosphere itself.
That does not mean the food is not delicious. It simply means the atmosphere is that overwhelming.
Nakseonjae is known for Korean set meals, chicken baeksuk, spicy braised chicken, acorn jelly, and Korean pancakes. What you order is important, but on this route, the Korean table setting—where several side dishes are shared—and the time spent dining inside a hanok are important parts of the experience.
The main menu includes Korean set meals, nourishing chicken baeksuk, spicy braised chicken, and individual dishes. Since baeksuk takes a long time to cook, you can walk around Nakseonjae while waiting.
Orders are placed through an intercom inside each detached room. If Korean is difficult, it is a good idea to check the menu on Naver before your room is assigned, capture images of the dishes, and show them to the staff. Once your room is assigned, it may be some distance from the reception area, and additional orders must be made through the intercom. Whenever possible, order everything at the beginning. Otherwise, you may need to walk back to place another order.
Nakseonjae is relatively easy to reach by car, but travelers using public transportation should consider the bus schedule and the final walking distance.
Transportation Guide
Route 1: Take the Suin–Bundang Line from Wangsimni Station
For travelers departing from central or northern Seoul, using Wangsimni Station is convenient.
Wangsimni Station → Suin–Bundang Line → Bokjeong Station → Taxi → Nakseonjae
Subway
Take the Suin–Bundang Line from Wangsimni Station toward Jukjeon or Suwon.
- Approximate travel time: 27 minutes
Bokjeong Station to Nakseonjae
- Taxi travel time: about 28 minutes
- Estimated taxi fare: about KRW 15,000
The actual fare may vary slightly depending on departure time, road traffic, and the type of vehicle requested.
Route 2: Take Line 8 from Jamsil Station
Travelers departing from eastern Seoul, Songpa, or Gangdong can use Jamsil Station.
Jamsil Station → Line 8 → Sanseong Station → Taxi → Nakseonjae
Subway
Take Line 8 from Jamsil Station toward Moran and get off at Sanseong Station.
- Approximate travel time: 19 minutes
Sanseong Station to Nakseonjae
- Estimated taxi fare: KRW 12,000–14,000
Bus Option
Travel by bus is possible, but the route is quite complicated.
After getting off at Bokjeong Station, transfer to Line 8 and get off at Sanseong Station. Take bus 9, 52, or holiday bus 9-1 to the Namhansanseong terminus. Transfer to bus 15-1 toward Gyeonggi Gwangju Station, get off at Buldang-ri · Beolgyojip-ap, and walk about 10–15 minutes to Nakseonjae.
This route is complicated and takes a considerable amount of time, so using a taxi is the more practical option.
One advantage of taking the bus is that it allows you to encounter Korea more deeply along the way.
From Nakseonjae to Namhansanseong
After exploring every corner of Namhansanseong Nakseonjae and enjoying a delicious lunch, it is time to continue to Namhansanseong.
When taking a taxi, set your destination as Namhansanseong Temporary Palace or Sanseong Rotary. Choose the Temporary Palace if you want to begin with the historic site, or Sanseong Rotary if you want to start near the restaurants and cafés.
Check the basic travel time and estimated fare shown in your navigation app. On weekends and during autumn foliage season, traffic on the mountain road may make the journey slightly longer.
By Bus
Walk from Nakseonjae to the Buldang-ri · Beolgyojip-ap stop and take bus 15-1 toward Namhansanseong.
- Bus route: 15-1
- Get off at: Namhansanseong terminus
- Adult transportation-card base fare: KRW 1,650
- Walk from Nakseonjae to the bus stop: about 10–15 minutes
Bus 15-1 travels from Buldang-ri through Geombok-ri and the Namhansanseong World Heritage Center before reaching the Namhansanseong terminus.
It is relatively easy to use on weekdays, but intervals may be long on weekends. Check the live arrival time before finishing your meal, and switch to a taxi if the waiting time is too long.
Travel Back in Time: Namhansanseong
Namhansanseong is one of the most beautiful historic sites near Seoul.
Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Namhansanseong is not simply a stone wall. Once an emergency capital for kings, it is a treasured place that preserves Korea’s deep history within beautiful natural scenery.
The stones used to build Namhansanseong hold remarkably deep stories.
Background: The fortress used the former site of Jujangseong, built during the reign of King Munmu of Silla. Large-scale expansion and repairs began in 1624, the second year of King Injo’s reign during the Joseon Dynasty.
The Manchu Invasion: During the Manchu Invasion of 1636, King Injo took refuge here and resisted for 47 days. It is also the setting of a painful chapter in Korean history.
A major feature of Namhansanseong is that, when you examine the fortress walls closely, you can see differences in the shapes of the stones and the building techniques used over different periods.
Material: Granite quarried mainly from nearby mountains was used. Granite is hard and changes very little, making it ideal for building fortress walls.
Changes over time
Silla period: Large, uncut natural stones were commonly stacked as they were.
Joseon period: To make the fortress walls stronger, techniques developed for cutting stones precisely into rectangular shapes.
Mixed style: Because Namhansanseong was repaired over a long period, large, rough natural stones can be seen in the lower sections, while carefully cut rectangular stones are stacked in layers higher up.
As you walk along the fortress walls, look closely at how the shapes of the stones change. You will feel that they are not simply stones placed on top of one another, but that they contain the skill and effort of people who tried to protect this fortress for hundreds of years.
Namhansanseong Fortress Walk: A Journey Through the Flow of History
Approximate time: 3 hours
This course, which follows the core western wall of Namhansanseong Fortress, is one of the best courses where you can simultaneously experience the majesty of the sturdy fortress and the panoramic views.
South Gate, Jihwamun
Passing Through the Gateway of the Fortress
Historical meaning: The South Gate is the largest and most elaborate of Namhansanseong’s four main gates. King Jeongjo also passed through it during a royal procession. The gate remains intact today, allowing visitors to feel its grandeur.
Sueojangdae
Looking Down from the Top of the Fortress
Historical meaning: Sueojangdae was a command post where generals directed soldiers. It is the only surviving building among the five command posts that once stood inside the fortress, and it has a quiet beauty of its own.
It stands at an elevation of 482 metres. Sitting on a bench in front of the building, you can look down over the city of Gwangju below. The breeze makes it a good place to cool down, feel the forest air, and spend a moment letting go of your thoughts.
West Gate, Uingmun
The Best Viewpoint Embracing Seoul
Historical meaning: The West Gate is also the painful site where King Injo opened the gate and left after suffering humiliation during the Manchu Invasion.
The moment you stand near the wall by the West Gate, Seoul’s modern skyline unfolds beyond the fortress, centred around Lotte World Tower. Around sunset, the sun disappears behind the mountains and the buildings of central Seoul begin to light up one by one. During this Magic Hour, the glowing city below a sky filled with sunset colours creates a fantastic contrast that is difficult to find anywhere else in the world.
After completing the Namhansanseong walk, a refreshing bowl of makgeolli truly feels like the completion of a hike. Let us look at why makgeolli after hiking has such special meaning for Koreans and which dishes suit this itinerary.
Avoid visiting on Mondays.
Namhansanseong Provincial Park
Open 24 hours, year-round
Namhansanseong Temporary Palace
Closed every Monday
Tue–Sun, 10:00–18:00
Sueojangdae
Open 24 hours, year-round
Food to Enjoy After Walking Namhansanseong
Why Do Koreans Look for Makgeolli After Hiking?
In Korea, the formula “hiking = makgeolli” has grown beyond a simple habit and become a culture of its own. There are several interesting reasons behind it.
Recovery from fatigue and replenishing sugar: A body tired from hiking needs energy and electrolytes. Made by fermenting grain, makgeolli contains moderate amounts of carbohydrates, protein, and sugar, so it can provide an immediate source of energy.
The traditional culture of cham: In Korea’s agricultural past, people drank makgeolli during a mid-work snack break called cham. That custom continued into hiking culture. The emotional comfort and sense of connection created by sharing a bowl of makgeolli after hard work help wash away the difficulty of the hike.
The harmony of mountains and food: After walking down a winding mountain path, alcohol tastes even better when enjoyed outdoors in the breeze. Since dishes such as pajeon and acorn jelly have long developed around the entrances to Korean mountains, they naturally pair perfectly with makgeolli.
Recommended Dishes with Makgeolli After Namhansanseong
The restaurants around Sanseong Rotary have developed a wide range of well-prepared dishes for hikers. Here are three recommended dishes to enjoy with a bowl of makgeolli.
Seafood Pajeon & Spicy Acorn Jelly Salad
Why: This is the combination that first comes to mind after a hike. A crisp pajeon sizzling from the pan clears away the thick texture of makgeolli, while the slightly bitter, sweet, and tangy acorn jelly salad stimulates the appetite.
Tofu Hot Pot or Tofu with Kimchi
Why: Namhansanseong has long been famous for tofu. Savoury, freshly made tofu pairs beautifully with makgeolli. Choose a hot tofu pot for a filling dinner, or tofu served with spicy stir-fried kimchi for a lighter dish to enjoy with your drink.
Mountain-Vegetable Bibimbap
Why: Filled with fresh greens gathered from the mountains, bibimbap is one of the best healthy meals after hiking. A spoonful fragrant with gochujang and sesame oil, followed by a sip of makgeolli, creates a perfect dinner that leaves nothing else to wish for.
Tip: Enjoying Sanseong Rotary
Look around the restaurants gathered near the entrance and the streams flowing down from the mountain.
Namhansanseong is popular with Koreans as a weekend outing, a scenic driving route, and a destination for visiting restaurants. I hope you experience a deeper side of Korea here.
To enjoy Namhansanseong one hundred percent, travelling by car is certainly convenient. As you feel the beauty of the forest and arrive at the fortress, its atmosphere and weight create a powerful emotion.
Even so, this Namhansanseong Nakseonjae itinerary can still become a memorable and meaningful day trip—not a surface-level journey through Korea, but a deeper travel experience.
Finish your wonderful day at Namhansanseong in a cheerful mood with a refreshing bowl of makgeolli.
Returning to Seoul from Namhansanseong
Toward Wangsimni Station
If the arrival time for bus 52 works with your schedule, the following route is convenient.
Namhansanseong Terminus → Bus 52 → Moran Station → Suin–Bundang Line → Wangsimni Station
From Moran Station, take the Suin–Bundang Line directly to Wangsimni Station without another transfer. However, bus 52 may have long intervals, so check the live arrival time before you finish enjoying food at Namhansanseong.
If the wait for bus 52 is too long, take bus 9 or holiday bus 9-1 down to Sanseong Station, take Line 8 to Bokjeong Station, and transfer to the Suin–Bundang Line.
Toward Jamsil Station
Namhansanseong Terminus → Bus 9, 52, or Holiday Bus 9-1 → Sanseong Station → Line 8 → Jamsil Station
Take a bus from the Namhansanseong terminus down to Sanseong Station, then take Line 8 directly to Jamsil Station. The subway journey from Sanseong Station to Jamsil Station takes about 19 minutes.
On weekend evenings, many vehicles may leave Namhansanseong at the same time, so it is better not to plan your return to Seoul too tightly.
Things to Check Before Your Trip
Use Naver Map to check bus arrival times.
The Namhansanseong Temporary Palace may be closed on Mondays, so check the day when planning your trip.
If you plan to walk the fortress trail, wear comfortable, non-slip shoes.
Check the basic estimated taxi fare shown in your navigation app first. The actual fare may vary slightly depending on traffic or calling conditions.